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Stephanie Porter-Nichols/John Shields and Karen Urie moved from Chicago to Chilhowie to serve as chefs for the Town House Grill. 

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Creating a dining experience

By STEPHANIE PORTER-NICHOLS/Staff

When John Shields and Karen Urie talk, they tell a love story. The elements of devotion, respect, excitement and a leap of faith combine for a compelling tale of passion for one another and for food.
Kyra Bishop, the manager and an owner of the Town House Grill, remembers exactly when she first met the couple and tasted their food. After a national search for a new chef for their Chilhowie restaurant, Kyra and her husband, Tom, narrowed the list of candidates to three, one from Birmingham, another from Colorado, and Shields and Urie from Chicago. “I’ll never forget that day,” said Kyra. “There was so much flavor and style in their food…. I couldn’t stop thinking about it. We just got excited.”
Then, they interacted with the two chefs, whom Kyra described as dynamic. “They possess such a passion for food. They love what they do.”
Shields and Urie were equally taken with the Town House Grill. “We had our eyes open to the world,” Shields said, acknowledging that the idea of changing a restaurant to meet a new vision “seemed like an awesome opportunity.”
“We love a challenge,” Urie noted. “We definitely take the hard road…. You learn so much more from that.”
Though they admit the decision was nerve-wracking, they followed their gut and moved more than 600 miles from Chicago to a town with a population of less than 2,000.
Their ambition wasn’t deterred. “We came here with a goal,” said Shields. “We’re looking to make this one of the best restaurants in Virginia.”
They’ve been working toward this opportunity for years. Both went to culinary school, but for quite different reasons.
Urie had long recognized the role of food in her family life and knew that she wanted to pursue a career as a chef.
At 19, Shields wasn’t food-oriented, but at a crossroads in his life, his father suggested culinary school.
Urie took school seriously. Shields found he learned better outside the classroom. When a chef took him under his wing, Shields left school and began teaching himself.
Their paths intersected in Chicago at the world-famous Charlie Trotter’s restaurant. They became friends, but then Shields left the restaurant. The impression, however, lasted. Two years later, Shields called Urie for a date. They began looking for a place where they could work together and found it with the Town House Grill.
“We’re a good one-two punch,” quipped Shields, who noted they spend all their time together.
“We’re so passionate about our work. It’s great to share that with someone,” said Urie.
Even when picking favorite dishes off the new menu, they select a dish of their partner’s creation. Urie’s eyes light up when she talks about Shields’ Saddle of Lamb spicebread, dairy, honey and caraway dish. “That is so good,” she declared.
Shields chose Urie’s Bittersweet Chocolate thyme, grilled bread and parmesan dish.
The menu they introduced at the Town House in January has certainly attracted attention.
The two chefs frankly acknowledge that not all of the restaurant’s customers have taken to the offerings, which now include selections such as Foie Gras, squab and Mero fish. A few patrons have taken their business elsewhere. Shields, confident in the quality of food the restaurant offers, doesn’t plan to backtrack.
He and Urie explain, “There’s reason and logic to everything on a plate.”
First, Urie said, the food must be visually appealing. “You first eat with your eyes,” she said. Then, she added that the flavors and textures must be combined intellectually and in a way that makes sense.
Shields noted, “The whole menu has a sweet-savory note.”
While respecting the tradition and history of cuisine, the duo said that they strive to break the mentality of what is traditional. As an example, they noted the sweetness of many root vegetables, such as potatoes. Their menu features a Venezeulan chocolate dish with pretzel ice cream, crisp potato and mustard. One customer, said Urie, described the dessert as an enhanced version of dipping french fries into a milkshake.
“It’s all about balance,” said Shields. “I couldn’t imagine being like everyone else.”
Noting that they source food locally and from around the world in an effort to serve the highest quality dishes, Urie said, “It’s food. It’s pure food.” She emphasized that much of their food is organic and nutritional, “packed with flavor and brightness.”
Nutrition is important to Urie. “Food is fuel for your body. You have to pay close attention to what you’re putting in your body,” she said.
Most importantly, they want their restaurant guests to enjoy the entire dining experience. The chefs work with servers to help them understand the menu and be able to guide guests in dining choices.
“The last thing we want is people to feel awkward or nervous,” said Urie.
Shields gave credit to the restaurant’s entire staff for their dedication and hard work.
The restaurant has also instituted special four-course tasting events and lessons in wine selections to expose customers to more options.
Kyra Bishop, who often helps guests select a wine to accompany their meal, agreed about the priority of guest comfort. “It’s more of a dining experience,” she said. “It’s all about people and good southern hospitality.”
Bishop hopes that as the Town House Grill’s reputation spreads, it will become a component of attracting visitors to Smyth County.
The restaurant, according to Bishop, currently draws its diners from localities within about an hour’s drive. She also noted strong local support.
In addition to the food, she believes fine service will attract guests to the restaurant. She speaks of achieving satisfaction from ensuring that people enjoy special nights at the restaurant. “We’re all put here to serve each other,” she declared.
Both of the chefs agree that to accomplish their goals they must be willing to do any task necessary to produce good meals for their customers.
Later in the day, as they began working toward the evening meal service, both chefs washed dishes.
They often worked silently and intently, concentrating on measuring the perfect slice or ensuring that tough stems were removed from herbs.
As the pungent odor of cauliflower cooking mingled with the scent of the fresh herbs being crushed for a dessert, Shields trained his co-workers on recipes and proportions. They regularly tasted dishes to test their readiness.
Urie summed up their philosophy. “It’s important to me to be proud at the end of the day,” she said.